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Chevy Engines for Sale
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BEFORE YOU CONSIDER PURCHASING AN ENGINE ANYWHERE CONSIDER THE FACTS !!! ENGINE FACTORY HAS BEEN BUILDING MUSCLE CAR TURN KEY ENGINES FOR 35 YEARS. WE ARE THE WORLDS LEADER.
THE MOST IMPORTANT QUESTION YOU MUST ASK BEFORE YOU PURCHASE AN ENGINE IS, HAS THE ENGINE BEEN LIVE RUN, HOT TESTED, AND DOCUMENTED. THIS IS THE ONLY WAY THAT YOU WILL KNOW IF YOU ARE RECEIVING A PERFECT ENGINE. WE NOT ONLY HOT TEST EVERY TURN KEY ENGINE, BUT WE DO IT WITH THE VIDEO CAMERA RUNNING, WE DO A PERSONAL VIDEO SUPPORTING ALL DOCUMENTATION. THIS VIDEO IS SUPPLIED TO YOU FOR YOUR PERSONAL RECORDS.
THE FOLLOWING IS A LIST OF ITEMS THAT WE TEST FOR DURING THE LIVE RUNNING OF YOUR ENGINE, REMEMBER YOUR ENGINE WILL BE INSTALLED ON OUR TEST STAND AND SET UP TO RUN JUST LIKE IT WOULD BE IN YOUR CAR. THIS MEANS A RADIATOR, FAN, EXHAUST SYSTEM, ETC. ARE ALL HOOKED UP, THE ENGINE IS THEN STARTED AND RUN FOR 45 MINUTES, EVERYTHING IS ADJUSTED, CLOSELY MONITORED, AND VIDEO TAPED, WE CHECK THE FOLLOWING.
# 1 OIL LEAKS CHECKED
FRONT HARMONIC BALANCER AREA
TIMING COVER GASKET
OIL PAN AND DRAIN PLUG
REAR MAIN SEAL
REAR CAM PLUG
OIL FILTER HOUSING
ALL EXTERNAL OIL PLUGS
INTAKE MANIFOLD END SEALS
DISTRIBUTOR HOUSING AND GASKET
# 2 COOLANT LEAKS CHECKED
ALL FREEZE PLUGS AND BLOCK DRAIN PLUGS
WATER PUMP AND GASKETS
INTAKE MANIFOLD AND GASKETS
THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND GASKET
ALL HOSE CONNECTIONS
# 3 FUEL LEAKS CHECKED
FUEL PUMP AND LINES
ALL FUEL LINES FITTINGS, AND CLAMPS
# 4 VACUUM LEAKS
ALL MANIFOLD PIPE PLUGS
DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM ADVANCE
INTERNAL ENGINE VACUUM LEAKS
POSITIVE CRANKCASE VENTILATION SYSTEM
# 5 THROTTLE RESPONSE
500 RPM TO 1500 RPM
1500 RPM TO 3500 RPM
3500 RPM TO 5500 RPM
TEST FOR ANY THROTTLE HESITATION
# 6 IDLE QUALITY AND CARBURETOR ADJUSTMENTS
ADJUST IDLE MIXTURE SCREWS
ADJUST FAST IDLE MECHANISM AND SPEED
ADJUST IDLE SPEED
# 7 OIL PRESSURE COLD AND HOT
TEST OIL PRESSURE DEAD COLD, USUALLY AROUND 75 PSI AT 2000 RPM
TEST PRESSURE AT 100 DEGREES
TEST PRESSURE AT 190 DEGREES
DIFFERENCE BETWEEN COLD AND HOT - HOT OIL IS USUALLY AROUND
20 PSI LOWER, THIS IS PERFECTLY NORMAL.
# 8 COOLANT TEMPERATURE TESTS
CHECK TO BE SURE ALL AIR POCKETS ARE REMOVED FROM BLOCK
CHECK WATER PUMP FOR PROPER CIRCULATION
TEST FOR ANY EXTERNAL LEAKS
CHECK TEMPERATURE AT ALL 4 CORNERS OF ENGINE
TEST FOR PROPER BLOCK AND HEAD COOLING
# 9 VIBRATIONS
EACH CYLINDER IS BALANCE TESTED
FLYWHEEL IS CHECKED FOR PROPER APPLICATION AND BALANCE
HARMONIC BALANCER CHECKED FOR PROPER APPLICATION
CHECK FOR SMOOTHNESS THROUGHOUT RPM RANGE
# 10 DISTRIBUTOR TIMING
ADJUST INITIAL TIMING THIS IS DONE WITH VACUUM ADVANCE OFF
CHECK AND ADJUST CENTRIFUGAL ADVANCE WEIGHTS
CHECK AND ADJUST VACUUM ADVANCE
CHECK FOR PROPER ADVANCE AT 3000 RPM, USUALLY 35 DEGREES WITH VACUUM ADVANCE DISCONNECTED
# 11 STARTER AND FLYWHEEL
CHECK FOR PROPER STARTER MOUNTING BOLTS
CHECK FOR PROPER ENGAGEMENT OF STARTER INTO FLYWHEEL
CHECK STARTER DRAW ON HOT ENGINE
CHECK FOR TRANSMISSION ALIGNMENT DOWEL PINS
CHECK FOR PROPER CRANK PILOT SIZE, OR INSTALL PILOT BUSHING
# 12 EXHAUST PORT TEMPERATURES
THIS IS IMPORTANT, PORT TEMPS SHOULD BE SIMILAR. A COOL PORT COULD MEAN A TIGHT VALVE, CROSSED WIRE, VACUUM LEAK, WEAK VALVE SPRING, ETC.
CENTER EXHAUST PORTS USUALLY BURN HOTTER, THIS IS NORMAL
# 13 GENERAL NOISE LEVEL
WE CHECK FOR NOISY VALVE ADJUSTMENTS OR MISALIGNMENT.
ENGINE FACTORY SPENDS A LOT OF EXTRA TIME HERE ADJUSTING AND ALIGNING THE VALVE TRAIN TO WORK IN PROPER HARMONY, WHICH RESULTS IN YEARS OF DRIVING PLEASURE, AND MORE POWER.
# 14 OPTIONAL ITEMS WHEN PURCHASED
ALTERNATOR OUTPUT, SYSTEM SHOULD CHARGE AT 14.2 VOLTS
POWER STEERING PUMP, WE TEST FOR PROPER PRESSURE AND LEAKS
WE CHECK FOR AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR PULLEY AND CLUTCH ALIGNMENT
SERPENTINE BELT AND V BELTS ARE CHECKED FOR PROPER TENSION AND ALIGNMENT
# 15 OVERALL APPEARANCE
EVERYTHING IS CHECKED FROM THE OIL PAN TO THE AIR CLEANER
PAINT, PACKAGING, PROPER WARNING LABELS ETC.
BY NOW YOU MUST BE SAYING WOW THAT’S A LOT OF THINGS TO CHECK, YES IT IS, IN TOTAL IT TAKES US ABOUT 5 HOURS TO HOOK UP, TEST, ADJUST, AND VIDEO TAPE EACH TURN KEY ENGINE. BUT WE DO IT BECAUSE WE KNOW IT IS THE ONLY WAY TO SEND AN ENGINE TO OUR CUSTOMER SO THAT THEY WILL HAVE TOTAL CONFIDENCE ON THAT PRODUCT BEFORE INSTALLATION.
DO IT ONCE AND DO IT RIGHT !!!!
REMEMBER IF IT HASN’T BEEN LIVE RUN AND HOT TESTED YOUR TAKING A CHANCE !!!! THINK ABOUT IT, IT’S YOUR MONEY!!!
What application vehicles would this engine work best with ?
This engine will work with a wide range of year, make and models. For instance Early to later model Camaro's, Vettes, Hot Rods & Trucks to name a few. We will match up the necessary components to your vehicles requirements. For Example some engines will require a different oil pan, flywheel, harmonic balancer and Water Pump.
What about idle quality and will I have enough vacuum to run my accessories ?
This is a pretty common question. We would rate this engine as a happy medium as far as idle quality goes. It has a little bit of a racy sound to it but it's not going to shake you to death! Usual idle is around 900-1000 RPMs. This will depend upon other factors. Vacuum will be fine for running accessories like Air conditioning, Power Steering and Power Brakes.
What other engine will this engine interchange with ?
The 305 and of course another 350 will interchange very easily with this motor. Earlier applications like a 265 or 327 can work with very minor modifications. 4 and 6 cylinder conversions also a possibility. Speak to one of our sales / techs on this.
What octane gas does this engine require ?
All our engines will run on good quality pump gas. This engines compression is below 10 to 1 so it can run very comfortably within 91 to 94 octane range.
What is the Redline that this engine be taken up to ?
This particular engine we would suggest RPMs be kept to under 5800 RPMs.
What is the Power Range of the engine ?
2000 thru to 5800 RPMs Making this great a very broad and streetable setup!
Will my stock Transmission work with this engine ?
In most cases the answer to this questions is Yes. A great deal of our customers re-use or freshen up their existing transmission. For mostly cruising around and / or laying down some rubber once in a while the factory transmission will hold up fine. Those of you who are doing holeshots and abusing the crap out of your car (You know who you are!) you may want to step things up. We may be able to give you some ideas or just talk to a Tranny guy. If your without a transmission and looking for advice on which to choose from. A heavier duty 700R4, TH350 or a modified TH400 Automatic Transmission will do the trick. For Manual Transmissions there's a lot available like the popular Tremec 5 or 6 speeds with an overdrive gear.
Will I need a higher Stall speed torque Converter to compliment this engine ?
This question applies to Automatic Transmissions only. It's not required, the factory converter will be OK to use. But depending upon the use of the vehicle on the street or the track then maybe one step up on the factory stall speed could improve acceleration off the line. Other factors like the weight, gearing , tire size can come into play too. Speak to a Transmission expert on this.
Will it be required to change out my Rear End & What Rear end and Gearing is recommended with this engine ?
Two part question. Many of our customers past and present have used their existing gears and have been pleased with the results. But this again comes into play what you want to do with the vehicle. For the most part a rear end gear ratio of 3.55 up towards 4.11 would be ideal. The RPM range that you drive in most will determine what's best for your situation. Speak with a Rear end expert for some assistance on this matter.
Can I use my existing Exhaust manifolds? Are Headers required and what diameter should be used ?
Yes you can bolt up your existing exhaust manifolds and in most if not all occasions that will be a direct fit. But as you may know an engine acts like a pump the more efficient the air and fuel is delivered in and exits out the better and more responsive it will become. The Edelbrock Aluminum Cylinder Heads on this engine have the same factory bolt pattern to work with pretty much any standard Header. A general idea in Header size would fall in place of 1" 5/8 to 1" 3/4.
What size Radiator is recommended ?
Last but not least! This engine or any other engine we offer needs to run cool to expect long term results out of it. A used / older radiator that has been sitting around is not worth cleaning and reusing . A new 3 or 4 core Radiator is a cheap investment compared to an overheated $5,000.00 engine! It's worth the investment to spend a couple of hundred bucks to get a new radiator. Pay a little now or pay Later philosophy. There's plenty of good Radiator companies out there